They are two of the most well-known formal shoe styles, and while the Brogue and the Oxford are occasionally used interchangeably, they are different in construction, fastening and appearance. In this blog, you’ll learn exactly how. Let's get started, so strap yourself in - or rather, lace yourself up formally...
Oxford shoes originated in Scotland and were initially recognised as ‘Balmorals.’ (Quick history lesson: Queen Victoria acquired Balmoral Castle in 1852, which inspired Prince Albert to commission a new leisure boot to be worn around the grounds, making the Balmoral very popular in elite society)
As this fashionable shoe filtered down the country, a lower-cut version became popular among the students of Oxford University; it featured narrow slits on the sides which made it more comfortable to wear around campus than the fashionable Balmoral high boots of the time - and of course it lead to the shoe's now iconic name.
Closed lacing
This is a lacing and fastening system where the eyelets (the holes through which the laces pass) are stitched under the vamp (the front part of the shoe) which creates a sleek, refined and understated appearance.
This makes the Oxford the most formal type of dress shoe, as they have minimal upper decoration - though they can feature subtle aesthetics such a line of stitching over the toe, known as a cap toe Oxford (pictured).
The word ‘brogue’ comes from the Gaelic word bróg, meaning ‘shoe.’
Perforations
A brogue’s hallmark is the perforations (known as broguing) along the upper seams, edges, and sometimes on the toe cap of the shoe.
However, these perforations were not originally decorative; they were made as a functional feature to allow water to drain out of the footwear in the wet, marshy conditions that early outdoor shoes were worn in.
Wingtip Design
A brogue’s perforations come in a decorative pattern known as a ‘wingtip,’ so-called because the pattern of perforations along the toe looks like a bird's wing. Depending on the length of this pattern, a brogue can be described as a full, semi or quarter wingtip.
Medallions
If a brogue has decorative perforations on the toe area, it's known as a medallion design.
‘Brogue’ refers to a shoe’s decorative detailing, while ‘Oxford’ refers to the shoe's lacing style.
Pictured: The hallmark of a brogue - stylish perforated wingtips
Versatility
The decorative perforations make brogues less formal than Oxfords, so some feel this makes them a more appropriate ‘cross-over’ shoe, allowing them to be worn in both professional and more casual settings.
Personality
Brogues, with their embellished wingtips convey a sense of individuality and flair - and that’s never a bad thing. (in moderation!)
Pictured - understated style: a cap toe Oxford in full formal swing...
Formality
The sleek, understated design of an Oxford makes it ideal for formal and corporate settings.
Precision Fit
Because of the Oxford’s closed-lacing system, many feel it’s a more compact looking piece of footwear, and a tighter shoe which provides a snug and tailored fit.
Formal shoes can have either a closed (Oxford-style) lacing, or an open (derby-style) lacing system, plus varying upper decoration, which leads to two frequently asked questions:
Confusingly, yes - but that’s what makes footwear so fascinating! The patterning and fastening are often transferable across styles...
Pictured: A shoe with an open or 'derby' lacing - note that unlike the closed Oxford lacing, the facings (the material where the eyelets are situated) sit on top of the vamp.
This combo is often referred to as a Brogue-Oxford, because it combines the decorative perforations of a brogue, along with the sleek, closed-lacing system of an Oxford. This style is common in formal and semi-formal footwear, because it offers a little bit of elegance, along with a dash of flair.
Since "Oxford" refers to the lacing system and "Brogue" refers to the decorative perforations, an Oxford shoe can easily feature broguing, making it a stylish yet refined.
To ensure people working in safety-critical environments can get top-performing foot protection with outstanding slip-safety - as well as retain a formal/corporate look - V12 Footwear's executive styles have been developed with the classic craftsmanship of a formal shoe, but along with a host of protective features seamlessly integrated into their construction.
Surveyor has a classic Oxford lacing and delicate cap toe stitching, while Negotiator boasts full wingtip broguing. However, as elegant as they are, they're built to protect and perform - long-term.
As well as a fibreglass toecap and composite midsole to safeguard the feet, they both feature:
So - are you an Oxford or a brogue wearer? Click below to find out!